orvieto & assisi, italy - striped cathedrals & boar al fresco

it's friday and i'm a little thrown off -- i keep thinking "shit, i should pack", but nope, we have a rare two weekends in a row here at home, no travel. it feels weird. instead i'll get out the wanderlust in this post, the last from our road trip through italy to umbria, from back in april. from home base in todi, we drove into neighboring orvieto (to buy more wine. who are we kidding.). and on our long drive back to der schweiz, we spontaneously took the exit to assisi (on a sunday. #hugeregrets).

orvieto, italy

when you walk into orvieto you walk into a huge square lined with tiny cafes and gelaterias, and in the center is a massive, jaw-dropping black-and-stone cathedral that knocks the wind out of you, a bit.

orvieto, italy

il gelato, orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy
spoiler: we got gelato.

orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy
 this man was playing football with his kid when we arrived, and about three hours later, when we were leaving, they were still there, same spot. kid keeps that up he'll be a messi in no time.

duomo cathedral, orvieto, italy

duomo cathedral, orvieto, italy

duomo cathedral, orvieto, italy

duomo cathedral, orvieto, italy

from the central square we dipped into the tiny alleys and side streets. my rule for this is to pick the street furthest from where everyone else is going, with the least number of people on it.

orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy




orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy

l'oste del re, orvieto, italy
L'OSTE DEL RE - CORSO CAMILLO BENSO CONTE DI CAVOUR 58

stopped for lunch at 3pm and sat under the  mounted boar's head, best seats in the house. they kept the kitchen open for us so we made the most of it. arrabiata for me and, just guessing here, but something with boar for alexander.


l'oste del re, orvieto, italy
and wine and beers for the real sustenance.

l'oste del re, orvieto, italy
 you get two pictures of alex putting parmesan on his pasta because he is wearing a suit jacket which is my ultimate weakness, and this is my blog and i get to do what i want, yo.

orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy

orvieto, italy

wine goals met.

orvieto, italy
couldn't resist the gelateria after lunch. i told alex "no i don't want any gelato" and then when the server looked at me i said "frutti di bosco, per favore".

gelato orvieto, italy


ASSISI

on our way out of town alex impulsively took the exit lane for assisi and so that's where we found ourselves on a warm sunday afternoon. we'd both been to the city before, me 10 years ago on a spring break trip. what i remember about assisi is that the city is essentially vertical, built on a straight 90 degree angle upwards. and there was a horse statue, brand new, that i thought was the best statute i'd ever seen (after seeing a horse statue in each and every italian city we visited).

approaching the city from the road. yep, looks like it's still vertical, 10 years later.

assisi, italy

assisi, italy


assisi, italy

assisi, italy

as always, treasuring the tiny, empty, unspectacular corners the most. this particular sunday, the city was absolutely flooded with slow-moving, overweight sweaty tourists. it was a drastically different experience than my first time in assisi, which felt pretty quiet and sacred and overwhelmingly peaceful. this time around felt more like being in a mcdonalds in times square.

assisi, italy

assisi, italy

assisi, italy

assisi, italy

assisi, italy


assisi, italy

assisi, italy


assisi, italy
i'll take one of these too.

st francis statue assisi, italy
there's my favorite statue. looking on this staute 10 years earlier, we were told that locals weren't so sure how they felt about it. they've since moved him to a place of prominence, in front of the church of st. francis of assisi (there are actually about 12 churches with the exact same name in assisi), so i suppose they warmed up to him.

10 years ago my caption to my below photo was that "francis is sad because he has returned from battle and realized he is not meant to be a warrior, he is meant to be a monk."

st francis statue assisi, italy
here's what he looked like when he was just freshly installed, 10 years ago (thank you, young michelle's livejournal). amazing how quickly statues age, but he looks good with a little salt and pepper and rust.

assisi, italy
trying to squelch pure joy at reunion with World's Best Statue and "look cool".

assisi, italy

assisi, italy

assisi, italy

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