the region is known for its wines -- especially the sagrantino di montefalco: heaven in a bottle.
alex making a fiat look like a clown car.
RISTORANTE IL COCCORONE - LARGO TEMPESTIVI 11, MONTEFALCO
alex wanted to make a pilgrimage to montefalco, namesake and hometown of a ridiculously delicious red wine. we wanted to go to lunch at RISTORANTE ALLA VIA DI MEZZO DA GIORGIONE, but were turned away because they were full. i was not upset, because il coccorone ended up being one of the best meals i've ever had in my life -- each and every course. both of these restaurants are absolutely spectacular; go go go go go go go.
bread & olive oil, good red wine, truffle pasta, boar pasta.
and dessert for two. #weddingdiet
this little corner was pure magic: someone playing debussy on a piano drifted through the open shutters of one of the homes, a light rain that had just passed left everything feeling fresh and new, and alex and i were the only ones around for miles.
this is in the town of SPELLO, which is an impossibly tiny town that attracts absolutely no tourists. i'd heard its tiny streets are absolutely bursting with gorgeous flowers, but we went a bit too early in the year to get the full effect.
RISTORANTE UMBRIA - VIA SAN BONAVENTURA 13, TODI
this drop-dead gorgeous, old-school restaurant which does the simple, local specialties to perfection was our first runner up for rehearsal dinner spot. order a bottle of rubesco and the boar, which they'll roast on a spit in the huge fireplace in the dining room. there's a huge terrace overlooking the rolling hills of umbria out back, too.
and for dessert, cantuccini (aka biscotti) dipped in sweet wine. perfection.
pro tip: drive through umrbia aimlessly; take all the wrong turns; get so lost; enjoy.
FOSSO BIANCO / TERME SAN FILIPPO
tuscany, just a short drive north from todi, is full of natural hot springs. pack a picnic and a bathing suit and head for a soak with a bunch of middle-aged italian men arguing in italian about football. best part: it's totally free.
terme san filippo here is marked by sulfur cliffs, which make it look like you're surrounded by snow, even in summertime.
"life is not bad."
driving home, we took a tiny wrong turn and ended up on a winding farm road which led us to this view. no regrets. not a bad way to say goodbye to todi...
the next day, we drove back to rome to catch our flight back to switzerland.
FIASCHETTERIA BELTRAMME - VIA DELLA CROCE 39, ROME
with time to eat at only one restaurant in rome, we would normally go to our all-time favorite, ROSCIOLI, but it is closed on mondays. we ended up here and, no joke, it posed a heavy threat to roscioli's first place. absolute perfection
i forgot to take pictures of the food because i was too enraptured with eating it. but trust me: eat here. go go go go go.
we arrived right when they opened; all those seats were filled up within ten minutes. as alex says, if there's a restaurant italians think is worth making a reservation for, it's a damn good restaurant. italians do not do reservations.
ciao, italia! see you in ten days! xx