umbria, italy - springtime in the heart of italy

ten days from today, alex and i will be married in umbria, just south of tuscany, in the heart of italy. last april, we spent a long weekend in umbria to pick out our wedding venue. this april, we went back to finalize our wedding dinner menu -- and squeezed in a ton of pasta and wine and a little bit of wild hot springs, too.

Todi, Umbria, Italy

Todi, Umbria, Italy

Spello, Perugia, Italy

Montefalco Umbria Perugia Italy

Montefalco Umbria Perugia Italy

Montefalco Umbria Perugia Italy
the region is known for its wines -- especially the sagrantino di montefalco: heaven in a bottle.

Montefalco Umbria Perugia Italy

Montefalco Umbria Perugia Italy

Todi, Umbria, Italy

Todi, Umbria, Italy

Todi, Umbria, Italy

Todi, Umbria, Italy

Montefalco, Italy

Montefalco, Italy

Montefalco, Italy

Montefalco, Italy

Montefalco, Italy

Montefalco, Italy
alex making a fiat look like a clown car.

spello, italy

spello, italy


spello, italy

montefalco, umbria

montefalco, umbria

montefalco, umbria

montefalco, umbria

montefalco, umbria

ristorante il coccorone, montefalco, italy
RISTORANTE IL COCCORONE - LARGO TEMPESTIVI 11, MONTEFALCO 

alex wanted to make a pilgrimage to montefalco, namesake and hometown of a ridiculously delicious red wine. we wanted to go to lunch at RISTORANTE ALLA VIA DI MEZZO DA GIORGIONE, but were turned away because they were full. i was not upset, because il coccorone ended up being one of the best meals i've ever had in my life -- each and every course. both of these restaurants are absolutely spectacular; go go go go go go go.

ristorante il coccorone, montefalco, italy
bread & olive oil, good red wine, truffle pasta, boar pasta.

ristorante il coccorone, montefalco, italy

ristorante il coccorone, montefalco, italy
and dessert for two. #weddingdiet

montefalco, italy

montefalco, italy

todi, umbria, italy

spello, italy
this little corner was pure magic: someone playing debussy on a piano drifted through the open shutters of one of the homes, a light rain that had just passed left everything feeling fresh and new, and alex and i were the only ones around for miles.

this is in the town of SPELLO, which is an impossibly tiny town that attracts absolutely no tourists. i'd heard its tiny streets are absolutely bursting with gorgeous flowers, but we went a bit too early in the year to get the full effect.

todi, italy

todi, italy

todi, italy

Ristorante Umbria, Todi, Italy
RISTORANTE UMBRIA -  VIA SAN BONAVENTURA 13, TODI

this drop-dead gorgeous, old-school restaurant which does the simple, local specialties to perfection was our first runner up for rehearsal dinner spot. order a bottle of rubesco and the boar, which they'll roast on a spit in the huge fireplace in the dining room. there's a huge terrace overlooking the rolling hills of umbria out back, too.

Ristorante Umbria, Todi, Italy

Ristorante Umbria, Todi, Italy

and for dessert, cantuccini (aka biscotti) dipped in sweet wine. perfection.

Ristorante Umbria, Todi, Italy


pro tip: drive through umrbia aimlessly; take all the wrong turns; get so lost; enjoy.

tuscany, italy

tuscany, italy

fosso bianco, terme san filippo, tuscany
FOSSO BIANCO / TERME SAN FILIPPO

tuscany, just a short drive north from todi, is full of natural hot springs. pack a picnic and a bathing suit and head for a soak with a bunch of middle-aged italian men arguing in italian about football. best part: it's totally free. 

terme san filippo here is marked by sulfur cliffs, which make it look like you're surrounded by snow, even in summertime.

fosso bianco, terme san filippo, tuscany

fosso bianco, terme san filippo, tuscany

fosso bianco, terme san filippo, tuscany

fosso bianco, terme san filippo, tuscany
"life is not bad."

fosso bianco, terme san filippo, tuscany

fosso bianco, terme san filippo, tuscany

fosso bianco, terme san filippo, tuscany

fosso bianco, terme san filippo, tuscany

fosso bianco, terme san filippo, tuscany

fosso bianco, terme san filippo, tuscany

tuscany, italy

driving home, we took a tiny wrong turn and ended up on a winding farm road which led us to this view. no regrets. not a bad way to say goodbye to todi...

the next day, we drove back to rome to catch our flight back to switzerland.

rome, italy

fiaschetteria beltramme, rome
FIASCHETTERIA BELTRAMME - VIA DELLA CROCE 39, ROME

with time to eat at only one restaurant in rome, we would normally go to our all-time favorite, ROSCIOLI, but it is closed on mondays. we ended up here and, no joke, it posed a heavy threat to roscioli's first place. absolute perfection

i forgot to take pictures of the food because i was too enraptured with eating it. but trust me: eat here. go go go go go.

fiaschetteria beltramme, rome


we arrived right when they opened; all those seats were filled up within ten minutes. as alex says, if there's a restaurant italians think is worth making a reservation for, it's a damn good restaurant. italians do not do reservations.

streets of rome, italy

ciao, italia! see you in ten days! xx